Jared and I hoped to take 3 days round trip to do a traverse to Gayley or Mt Sill, starting with the Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag. This was to be my first real multi-day carryover of a technical climb, and I chose to do this as a prep-climb for my ambitious Teton plans with Steph Abegg, slated for September.A lot of things slowed us up on day 1 (packs too heavy, not first on the route, group cluster at & beyond the Tyrolean, etc) so we had to bivy at the notch beneath pitch 9 with the team of 3 that was pretty much climbing in parallel with us. This delay cost us the traverse due to not having enough water to reach the next snowfield, plus we were just too tired as this was more of a butt-kicker than expected, but it was still a great experience climbing one of the longer, more classic routes in the Sierra with heavy packs!
Apart from the cl. 3-4 pitch 2, I led all pitches, and I climbed with about a 35-40 lb pack (depending on the day) and 12 lb rack (from carrying doubles to #3). This was a good learning experience as first, neither of us fully appreciated how much harder and exhausting it would be to climb with heavy packs on (Jared had intended to swing many 5.7 leads, but changed his mind after following P1), and second, weight added up faster than expected. A post-climb analysis of what we brought and used, and a weight breakdown, made it easier to keep packs lighter on future carry-overs, and it was enlightening to see where it really mattered to trim weight (food) and where you were just stuck if you didn't move fast enough or place caches (e.g. water). Another important detail we overlooked was that the rack weighs a lot, so it really matters that the leader carries a lighter pack if both climbers are to climb with the same weight. We had our packs the same weight, assuming that was more convenient with swinging leads to avoid constantly switching packs, but as we ended up not swinging leads, that left a double-whammy on me leading!
A summary of my less-than ideal pack weights on this trip are as follows:
Pack on Approach - 61.2 lbs
Day 1 - 40.4 lbs, 52 lbs w/ rack
Day 2 - 34.4 lbs, 46.4 lbs w/ rack