I prepped myself for leading all of the cruxy wide on this climb by sleeping 3 hours, puking up breakfast on the RR of Sunnyside Bench (off-route, don't worry), then eating only 400 calories for the day. Fortunately, like saving the star player for the final inning, while I led the earlier wide pitches that Nic was not happy to lead, Nic finished off by leading the face & rotten pitches I was not happy to lead. All in all, 21 hours car-to-car, so it was either that long, or we were that slow. Either way, we had fun.
Or in a more refined way to put it . . .
YPB, a Yosemite Classic, or Classic Yosemite? I'd say neither, and both. In a way it is classic, but it is NOT a Type I Fun sort of classic that people are accustomed to in Yosemite. There are some brushy sections, and a lot of the rock is loose or exfoliating. It also lacks the elegance of many of the lines in Yosemite, making the routefinding very difficult and the route much more reminiscent of an alpine climb (I have never climbed such an indirect 'direct' variation). However, there are some stellar pitches, the views from the route are wonderful, and it is a good looong rock climb. The approach is also not to be underestimated involves a lot of hiking, cross-country travel, and scrambling or simul-climbing just to reach the base of the first pitch, nearly 2,000 ft above the Valley floor. However, it is Classic Yosemite in that it has lots of burly wide climbing, stout face climbing, some incredible hand cracks, and huge exposure at the end.
I would like to give special thank to Clint Cummins for helping me figure out this route when I was attempting to match the Reid topo to the terrain from recon photos I had taken. Without such help we surely would have gotten even more lost and spent more time climbing in the dark!
Standard Wombat Warning applies to this trip report. For those that want to keep the route mysterious, don't read any further!
I first became intrigued with the route when I stumbled across the topo in the Reid guide. Looking around online, including the SuperTopo forums, I became more interested in the route, but information on the route was still vague. So heading in to this climb, there was still a lot of mystery surrounding the route.