After several days of rain, with a continuing bleak forecast, Applebee Campground gradually emptied out until only a skeleton crew of me, Alec, and maybe 5-10 other climbers remained. After being denied Bugaboo Spire the day prior from weather that was much different than forecast, Alec and I moved camp back down to the Kain Hut to regain morale. The forecast for Aug 3 was again 40% chance of thunderstorms, and it looked the same or worse for the next week, so this was our last chance to climb the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire before returning home.
Another alpine start left us at the base of the route just before sunrise, with clear skies and nice alpenglow. The dirty chute we took to the col was the crux climbing of the day, and we belayed one pitch. The route was fun and went quickly, taking us 5 hrs to climb the 10 official pitches. We chose to climb the north summit rather than take the bypass that most people do, and then descended the Kain Route, running into Allister, the hut caretaker, again! (We had run into him on the rainy day climb of Lion's Way the day before). The weather looked threatening for a while when we were high on the spire, but ultimately the skies cleared up into a fine day for the descent back to the hut & car . . . rain and lightning started once we started driving out from the Bugs . . .